Ascents Urus Ishinca Tocllaraju

The Ishinca Valley with its three mountains offers climbers various climbing and trekking possibilities. Base camp is reached from Pashpa 3600 m. along a panoramic and progressive path. The ascents can be made from the Ishinca Refuge 4350 m. in the day except Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca where high fields are necessary.

The Urus 5490mIt is a perfect mountain for acclimatization, its easy glacier climbing slopes leading to the summit. If you leave early, the climbing day ends for lunch at Base Camp.

Difficulty: PD-

The Ishinca 5530mIt is an excellent mountain to climb, for those who do not have much experience and also for those who wish to acclimatize well after continuing with more difficult ascents. The route is an easy glacier with a steep part of about 100 meters before the summit. From the summit impressive view of Ranrapalca and Huantsán.

Difficulty : PD –

El Tocllaraju 6034m, is the 6000m accessible peak, being an exciting climb in its last exposed meters, with its crests of large cornices that lead us to its summit. Impressive views of the Copa from its glacier.

7 Days

Ascents

Difficult

Caminata

12 Paxs

About the tour:

Travel Plan

Día 1: It will mark 2750 m- Bus Pashpa 3500 m – trek Ishinca Refuge 4350 m.

Transfer by bus to the town of Pashpa 3500 m, start the trek through a balcony appreciating the Copa and Huascarán to the north. Through a forest of quenuales (typical tree of the mountain range) the deep and progressive Ishinca Creek begins, sighting the superb Torres de Ishinca, after pampas we arrive at the Ishinca Refuge 4350 m, below a circle of mountains.

Day 2: Ascent Ishinca Refuge 4350 m- Ishinca Summit 5530 m.

From the refuge you cross the river finding the zigzag path that ascends towards a plain. The slope is gentler until the final channel of the Ishinca lagoon. It begins by the north glacier up to a small col with small cracks. Before the summit about 100 m of steep slope 45 degrees. Nice view from the summit. Return through the southwest glacier next to Ranrapalaca, refuge descent.

Day 3: Ascent to Ishinca Refuge 4350 m – Urus summit 5490 m.

Approaching the slopes of Urus Este that begins between stone blocks. The rough route continues in short zigzags until you reach a promontory of blocks. The slope becomes gentler and the glacier is climbed by easy slopes. The last meters little snow that precedes the summit.

Day 4: Rest day.

Optional visit of Tocllacocha 4400 m.

Day 5: Ascent to the Ishinca Refuge 4350 m - Camp Morrena Tocllaraju 5100 m.

At the left end of the valley, the ascent to Camp 1 begins, a straight and wild path up to the glacier tongue, continuing the edge of the glacier, Camp 1 is reached next to granite rocks. Good views of the sunset and the Cup.

Day 6: Ascent Campo Morrena - Tocllaraju Summit 6034 m – return to Ishinca Refuge.

Cross the long glacier with the presence of cracks. Taking the northwest ridge it then leads to the base of a pyramid where there is the rimaya and the technical steep part of 60m with a 55 degree slope, then an easy crest ridge to the summit. Return with rappels, then Camp 1 and descent to the refuge.

Day 7: Trek return Ishinca Refuge – Pashpa 3500 m – Marcará bus.

Departure

Includes and does not include

  • Transfer Huaraz- Pashpa IN-OUT
  • UIAGM-AGMP Mountain Guide and Aspiring Guide group of more than 4 climbers.
  • Half Board Accommodation at Refugio Peru
  • Lunches included
  • Acemilas in Pashpa to IN OUT Refuge
  • Porter for the Tocllaraju collective team
  • Huascaran National Park tickets

Gallery

Testimonials

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